I Failed to Repair my Cheap Aston Martin. It Drove Only 60 FEET on it’s First Drive Before Dying – Everything Law and Order Blog

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In one of my most disastrous mistakes ever, my Cheap Repo Auction Aston Martin V8 Vantage drove out of the barn a few feet before breaking badly. I blame it all on my Salvage Rooster…

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40 thoughts on “I Failed to Repair my Cheap Aston Martin. It Drove Only 60 FEET on it’s First Drive Before Dying”
  1. When putting in a full circle type rear main seal like that,you have to do the following procedures: 1. Clean the new seal with brake clean. 2. Clean the block surface 100% (no oil or grease) with brake clean. 3. Wipe a small (almost infinitesimal) on the seal crankshaft sealing area ONLY. 4. On the block sealing area coat with a very small amount of 3M yellow cement. (yellow snot). 5. Then drive the seal on very carefully, straight and into the block driven down to EVEN with the block surface.

  2. I have a sports shift . Working on getting clutch and gears to shift. I think my acculstir is bad. Getting up over transaxle to adjust and bleed is a pain . 2 days. Still not working. You need scan tool to bleed

  3. How can you consider reusing a relatively cheap part like that seal, when it is buried under hours and hours of labour to reach it, in case it fails? That's not rational at all, to say the least. You can use to protect the new one and hammer away on this if you place it over.

  4. I had a feeling there was going to be issues when he slobbered oil all over that seal. Either dry or a high temp sealant/loctite on the outside of it. I never put them in without some sort of sealant.

  5. Yeah..the AMV8 is loosely based on the Jag architecture, but it isn't the SAME engine. You should probably just get the correct AM RMS…kinda like the filter. What is a few bucks when a replacement engine costs $25k?

  6. Rear Main Seal Installation…

    I had trouble getting the RMS istalled on my 928 S4 5-speed. I was able to get it started, but could not drive it down.

    What I did was take the old RMS, and using electrical tape, I aligned and taped it to the backside of the flywheel oriented so that both RMS's met face-to-face. I attempted to install the flywheel but the stock bolts were now too short. I ran to Ace and bought bolts half-inch longer which then allowed me to get the flywheel started. I went around and tightened the bolts a half-turn at a time which pushed down the RMS perfectly square all around.

    Finally, started the car and no leaks!

  7. I'd feel sorry for you if you weren't a rich you tuber trying to cheap out and trying to outsmart the British crappy engineering trying to be in traffick looking Luke a baller while I cant even get a decent car to drive to work to support my family I hate you

  8. you DAMAGED running surface on crank when FIRST working on car—– when pulling old seal out…… most likely crank needs COLLAR to create new surface for seal…. ALWAYS put ptfe tape around a seal in a serious position OR bearing sealer TO AVOID IT POPPING OUT…… YAMAHA'S BLOW OUT 2 STROKE CRANK SEALS even brand new oem on perfect shaft……

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